Farro & Mushroom Risotto
A couple of weeks ago I spotted my first morel mushroom.
On Instagram.
Alas, I wish I could tell you I’d discovered it deep in the woods, its honeycomb-patterned cap poking up out of a pile of damp decomposing leaves, but that would be a lie. I’ve never been mushroom hunting in my life.
A prized culinary ingredient, the morel is often considered sacred & its consistent high price tag demonstrates just how coveted it is. But why? Foraged by hand, these highly sought-after fungi are not easy to come by & even experienced mushroom hunters can return from a ramble unsuccessful in their quest.
While I may never find a morel for myself, I have been fortunate enough on several occasions to taste this elusive spring fungus that can only be found in its natural habitat between the months of March & May. Meaty yet tender, earthy & intense without being funky, morels have a rare capability of being able to shine single-handedly in a dish, or, pair perfectly with multiple flavors. Couple this with their narrow window of availability & the time-intensive way in which they are cultivated & it all begins to make perfect sense.
As afore mentioned, the chances of me ever going mushroom hunting are very unlikely. Combined with dwindling access to basic ingredients, my detestation of going anywhere in a face mask, & the presently limited dining-out options, it seems this springtime will pass without a morsel of morel. Sigh.
After seeing the elusive fungi appear on my Instagram feed, I was inspired to create a dish I imagined I would cook if I had some on hand. I immediately thought of risotto. In an effort to conjure up a savory dinner that embodied the same nutty, woodsy character of the coveted mushroom, I turned to the robust ancient grain farro instead of traditional Arborio rice, knowing from experience that it would best imitate the flavor & texture I was going for. Widely available hen-of-the-woods mushrooms (otherwise known as maitake) serve as the base for this hearty risotto & although not quite the same, they serve as an excellent second to morels. A generous dollop of homemade parsley pesto adds vibrancy & a freshness that resonates with the season while a final flourish of cheese brings a delicious creamy richness.
I’ve been tweaking this one for a while now & the end result has fast become a midweek favorite. I don’t always have Stilton cheese on hand & while I do prefer to use an intense, veiny blue variety to finish the risotto, parmesan cheese works also. This risotto recipe might not be made with the culinary world’s favorite mushroom, but it’ll do a pretty great job of satisfying my craving… until next spring!
Farro & Mushroom Risotto
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 1 hour
Serves: 4
Note: Any wild mushrooms will work for this dish, however, for a flavor & texture that closely resembles the morel, I like hen of the woods mushrooms. The mushrooms should be no bigger than an inch in size. Coarsely chop larger mushrooms & leave smaller varieties whole.
ingredients
For the pesto:
Approximately 1 tightly-packed cup of fresh, flat leaf parsley leaves
2 tablespoons (30g / 1 oz) pine nuts
1 clove garlic, peeled
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
For the risotto:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon (15g / ½ oz) unsalted butter
1 medium onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ cups (300g / 10 oz) farro
1 cup (240 ml / 8 oz) dry white wine
4 cups (950ml / 32 oz) chicken stock, boiling hot
2 cups (150g / 5 ½ oz) wild mushrooms, cleaned & coarsely chopped (see note above)
5-6 sprigs fresh thyme
1 cup (100g / 3 ½ oz) Stilton cheese, crumbled (if Stilton is unavailable, any blue veined cheese will work)
Salt & pepper to taste
2 tablespoons (30 g / 1 oz) unsalted butter to finish
instructions
First, place the farro in a bowl & pour on enough hot water to cover by an inch. Leave to soak while you prepare the pesto.
Make the pesto. Wash & dry the parsley leaves & place in a blender or food processor* with the garlic clove & a generous tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil.
*I personally prefer a blender, however, either will work.In a small skillet over high heat, toast the pine nuts for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Be careful not to color them. There is no need for any oil here, the nuts should be toasted in a dry pan. Once toasted, add them to the blender.
Secure the blender lid & pulse the parsley, garlic, oil, & nuts several times to get the pesto started. Once the nuts & parsley are beginning to break down, slowly drizzle in the remainder of the extra virgin olive oil with the motor running. You may need to pause & scrape down the side of the blender with a spatula a few times to make sure everything is evenly blitzed. Add a pinch of salt & pepper to taste & set aside once fully blended into a gorgeous green paste.
When ready to make the risotto, heat the chicken stock on the stovetop.
Warm the olive oil and butter over medium heat in a heavy dutch oven or saucepan with a tight fitting lid. Add the onion & cook gently without coloring until softened, approximately 10-15 minutes. While the onion is cooking, drain the farro using a sieve & set aside.
When the onion is soft, add the minced garlic & cook for 1-2 minutes more on medium heat.
Add the drained farro to the dutch oven & turn up the heat. The farro will begin to lightly fry. Stir continuously for 1 minute. Add the white wine (it should sizzle) & keep stirring. Allow the wine to be absorbed into the farro, this should take 3-5 minutes.
Add all but one cup of the hot chicken stock to the dutch oven. Season generously then bring to a gentle simmer. Cover & leave to cook for 45 minutes. Be sure to remove the lid & stir the risotto from time to time as it’s cooking.
When the risotto is almost cooked (there should be a little liquid left in the pot, just enough to moisten the grains) warm a large frying pan over high heat. Add a splash of olive oil.
When hot, add the coarsely chopped mushrooms & toss them in the hot oil. Sauté the mushrooms quickly until they have evenly colored & released all of their moisture, this should take no more than 5 minutes. Be sure not to overcrowd the pan otherwise they will simmer in their own juices rather than brown & caramelize. Finish them with a sprinkling of fresh thyme, season with salt & pepper, stir & set aside.
When everything is ready, add the sautéed mushrooms to the dutch oven along with 3-4 heaped tablespoons of parsley pesto & the crumbled Stilton. Stir gently to combine. Add two tablespoons of butter, cover, & leave to sit for 2 minutes while you warm some plates.
Stir one last time, serve, & enjoy!
